Hey Wangi – Visiting Litchfield National Park

sandy feetLitchfield National Park was our final destination on our great Northern Territory camping shenanigans and glad-fully so (previous posts about this adventure can be read here and here). It had been a week of camping NT style. It was fair to say the small confines of a tent, the rusty coloured dirt getting into even the smallest of cracks and sharing each others company for 24/7 was starting to grate on us all. Don’t get me wrong we were loving it, but there was a growing amount of don’t fecking bother me kinda moments starting to appear so at large we spent the time in our own daydreams, not saying that much, just laying around really in a leave me alone kinda way.

Litchfield is popular. It’s only a 60 minute drive out of Darwin city making it very accessible for day trips which seem particularly hip over the weekend. This is why you need to get in and claim your camping spot pronto. First thing if possible. We breezed in around lunch time at Wangi Falls (probably the most popular site in the park) thinking we were keen bee’s and should have pick of the entire space. Nup. It was full. Nothing left except an awkward area were we couldn’t park our car with us and we couldn’t really get our tent pegs into because the ground was so stubbornly rock hard but we made those tent pegs get into that ground (somehow) and we set up camp no.4 on our little adventure.

tent peg problem

Wangi falls campsite

We were 300 metres to the falls. The sound of the water gushing over that waterfall was our camp soundtrack. Quite something. The falls were even better to look at.

Wangi falls

See. Not just a dam hey? Plenty of swimming space here for the bus loads of keen water splashing visitors.

This was not Mr Vick’s first visit here. He had been (without me – how disgusting) about 4 years ago. He kindly informed me that the last time he visited it was closed to the public due to the waters being infested with Crocodiles. Nice to know when you’re dangling your feet in the water finding the courage to lunge in. So the entire 2 days I was there I loved the water, but looked very hard under the surface constantly for sharp teeth. I was a scaredy cat, it is fair to say.

People dig the waterfall. They bask underneath it and on the rocks around it. I didn’t go out that far, the chicken, croc searching weakling I am. For some reason in my head there were more Crocodiles living over there. No stopping Mr Vick of course. He was all bravado and it paid off.

wangi falls alastair

See the little guy standing next to the falls? That’s my Mr Vick.

Litchfield has numerous swimming holes and walks you can do and some impressive looking ant holes

ant holes

Our time at Litchfield was quiet. We didn’t adventure out walking too much or exploring the park. We had done that for the past week about Kakadu and now we just wanted to make the most of our last few days sunning and snoozing, toddler allowing of course. We ate up all our food, read our books and watched Little Vick play in the dirt. Packing up our tent for the final time was a bitter sweet moment. Mostly sweet because I was sick of the putting up, packing down process. We were longing for a normal bed and shower and a fridge and vanilla slices and all that modern living stuff which we had wanted to escape. It’s good to miss it thou isn’t it? And we wouldn’t give up our time at Litchfield for anything.baby and me

Today I am linking up with Essentially Jess for the #IBOT party!

 

A History Lesson: The Cape Otway Lighthouse Visit

Over Easter we camped at Blanket Bay and when staying there if you want to get out and about you visit the Cape Otway Lighthouse. It’s kinda the only civilised spot to visit amongst the swaying gums on the isolated point. Little Vick, although I’m sure has no idea what a lighthouses function actually is was very excited to visit and Mr Vick was equally as excited since he is Hornblower fan from way back. I was happy to go and soak up some history.

We arrived looking like a couple of un-kept, bush bogans who had just crawled out of a cave. Just how grotty and camper-fied we were became apparent when we stepped back into civilisation at the lighthouse and a couple of bus loads of tourists arrived with their designer travel wear and Gucci sunglasses. They swaned about looking glamorous whilst I carried my double load looking like I had never been introduced to a hairbrush before. I looked a bit funny. I would have laughed at me.

I was struck with how commercialised the lighthouse experience has become since my last visit about 12 years ago. Now privately owned, there is an official entrance shop with tacky lighthouse souvenirs and a whopping entrance fee ($18.50 for adults, $7.50 for kids and $46.50 for a family). This was not how I remembered it. What is it now? A theme park??  

Not surprising the lighthouse has not changed, the telegraph station has not changed nor has any of the residential buildings which you can visit. But it does have a cafe and a token Aboriginal cultural mud shack and a WW2 bunker now for viewing. It seems they’ve jam packed a few extras in under the lighthouse banner which seemed ever so…. random.

The lighthouse was commissioned after a dreadful shipwreck off the neighbouring King Island in 1845 where 350 lives were lost. The Cape Otway Lighthouse become what is now labelled the most significant lighthouse in Australia. Indeed it was responsible for guiding the numerous ships crossing Bass Straight into Melbourne. It was thought to be a beacon of hope for such ships crossing along the treacherous shores of the notorious Shipwreck Coast.

The lighthouse was surprisingly smaller than I remembered. It was quite the obstacle course when trying to climb up the narrow steps to the top and back with a toddler, a bulging belly and a backpack on whilst a dozen and half Gucci clad tourists were trying to race up and back. It’s like they had blinkers on. Despite the crowd and cramped space (seriously can’t they just let a dozen people up at a time? not 3 dozen!) the view when you stepped out onto the outer platform was wild and breathtaking. No picture can sum it up. This one is rather dismal at doing that but you get some sense of the rugged-ness of the Cape Otway coastline.

It’s definitely a beanie wearing experience. It sure is wiiiindy!!!

No sooner had we climbed up but Little Vick was reminding us it was time to eeeeeat and we were expected to hike straight back down.

 Lunch with a lighthouse back drop is a bit spesh.

What captured me were the stories. I was curious to learn more about the families which had resided in what would have to be one of the most isolated corners in Australia at the time. Signing up to be a lighthouse keeper was a major sentence for the entire family. The first family to take on the commitment were there for 11 years and only ever had contact with the outside world when there was a shipwreck or when they met with the supplies ship which docked at Blanket Bay once a year. ONCE A YEAR!!!!!!! My mind boggles at that. I like my own space and quiet time but I think that kind would have eaten me up. The isolation, the limited resources, the all round arduous conditions… it would have been a frighteningly difficult existence. Many woman who lived it had gazillions of kids too – often between 9-12 as child mortality was so high (sadly on average half of a families brood would die before the age of 12). Many of those children where birthed at the lighthouse with no assistance, pain relief or medication to assist. Can you imagine birthing your own children at the end of the earth with no medical assistance or any kind of human reassurance?? Again, my mind boggles. These woman were tough. Tougher than you or I would ever have to be or could imagine.

Although child mortality was extremely high at these times, during the 120 years that families lived at Cape Otway Lighthouse only 4 children died which is an astounding statistic considering. Interestingly, those 4 all died within a couple of weeks of the supplies ship visiting from various immunity viruses like whooping cough. It could be said that the air at the lighthouse was some of the clearest and most pure to be found at the time.

Later a small community would be developed on the site with a telegraph station being built which was the central point for communication between the mainland and Tasmania. It would also become a small school and house many of the associated families.

An aging gentleman dressed as the lighthouse keeper was the local go to guru. Boy did he know his history of the Shipwreck coast and the lighthouse. He was worth the $18 bucks right there. We sat and listened to him for a good 30 minutes as he answered any questions and told us the story of “Jenny”.  Let me share it with you:

During the first posting at the Lighthouse, gold was discovered in the Ballarat area in 1853. The assistant lighthouse keepers fled in search of their fortune leaving just the head lighthouse keeper and his wife to man the lighthouse. At this time, as word had spread about gold, 100 ships were passing by the point a day. 100! The lighting of the lighthouse was never more crucial in safe keeping hundreds of lives. One morning the keeper trekked down to the beach where he found a freshly snapped piece of English oak wood which signalled to him that there was a wreck along the shores of the coast somewhere nearby. He packed up his horse and cart and went searching. He discovered 8 survivors at Johanna Beach, some 10km’s away, who were pretty pleased to see him. He carted them back to his small stone house where they were so happy to just sleep on the cold stone floor in the middle of a horrid winter and to be fed. They ate the families years worth of supplies in 3 weeks and with 6 months till the next shipment they had to send out for help somehow. But how do you do that then when you are the only one who knows the way to the closest town and the only one who knows how to light the lighthouse which is imperative in saving hundreds of lives a day??? The only option was to trust and teach 4 of the survivors how to light and man the lighthouse every evening whilst the remaining survivors and the family trekked to Birregurra some 8 days journey by foot to signal out for help! It was a successful leap of faith. This is that piece of oak – wood which is kept as a reminder of that time at the lighthouse today:

This is just one heroic story that comes out of the Cape Otway Lighthouse and the Shipwreck Coast. The Cape Otway Lighthouse is an important location in Victoria’s history and learning about the unique lifestyle there is fascinating. I left feeling not so begrudgingly about paying $18 for the experience after all.

Of course if you can’t visit the Cape Otway Lighthouse in person it can be seen in the lovely 2010 film South Solitary.

The Warm & Fuzzy Camping Story

Blanket Bay is one of those magical places to me. To us. It has long been. Mr Vick and I stumbled upon it in our courting days (way) back in 2005. We were driving a blue camper van circa 1978, borrowed from Mr Vick’s brother who’d just driven around Australia in it. It drove with the full sense of vintage. The gears were a bit clunky and it’s top speed was about 80 kms per hour at a push so we had to be content with spending a fair bit of time with one another and not gettin’ anywhere too fast. We had a couple of days up our sleeve so we headed off like gypsies with no plan in place other than to see where the road took us. In hindsight we suspect we would have ended up at Apollo Bay on the Great Ocean Road to buy supplies and set up a little love camp. Instead we took a turn off the concrete road out of curiosity and found ourselves driving down a zig zaggy gravel road which had pot holes nearly the size of the camper van, which did not have very youthful suspension. Mr Vick loved the adventure of not knowing where it was going to take us. I must have been head over heels, ‘cos I was happy enough to contently follow and live the adventure.

What we found would forever leave an imprint and be etched into our web of memories which have been labelled as “special times”. Blanket Bay was like a little discovery of treasure. It’s the bush, the quintessential Aussie bush filled with Gum trees, gazillions of entertaining koalas and singing birds, which meets the most picturesque, peaceful bay you could imagine. It’s a place of true stillness and evokes quiet contemplation and somehow always grounds me. It holds my feet down and reminds me about all those things that really matter.

I mean, it’s virtually the Dalai Lama with it’s little yin & yang sign on the sand.

We spent our 2 days there exploring, sun baking, canoodling, and eating hard boiled eggs. Organic hard boiled eggs picked up from my brothers farm on our travels. Apart from some suspiciously stale 2 minute noodles left from the vans previous trip, that would be all we would eat and we were so in love with each other and Blanket Bay it didn’t even matter.

We have been back once as a couple again and it was just as magic. Even more magic with more to eat than just hard boiled eggs.

This time, Easter 2013, we visited with our family (boring) station wagon circa 2002 with a little being in it and another one brewing. I marvel at the sense of life progression right there. In 8 little years….

We were so happy to find ourselves there again, particularly because we are now a family and we are going to share this place with our children as they grow up. Blanket Bay will forever be magical to us as we build a canvas of memories there with our children.

It’s such a family place. Surrounding us, at the peak time, were many families wanting to share Blanket Bay with their little budding adventurers. Little Vick has never been happier playing with the community of children which met by the communal campfire throughout the day. On the beach he played curiously amongst the captivating rock pools, clawed his hands through the white sand, collected shells and crabs as treasures. A contentedness fell over him. Blanket Bay had cast it’s spell on him too.

The Easter and Christmas period is of course the most popular time to visit Blanket Bay so there is a ballot system for securing one of the 20 campsites which is located in the Great Otway National Park 20km west of Apollo Bay near the Cape Otway Lighthouse. Keep an eye out here if you’re keen to go in the lottery or want to find out more about the campsite. The neighbouring Parker-Hill Bimbi camping spots are also good back up options if you want to be hangin’ in the Cape.

I’m happy to report that the drop loo’s have improved since 2005. I could be heard boasting back at our campsite with much excitement, or mere relief, that a number of new drop toilets had been built and that they didn’t even smell. Yep, that’s the extent of the luxury in terms of the facilities at Blanket Bay. If you want a shower, you swim in the ocean, if you want to be warm, you light a fire.

Of course it wasn’t all romance. There were the curious European wasps who have arrived by the droves since 2005, the on again off again rain, the wound on Little Vicks head from tripping on a rock and the afternoon of gastro which Little Vick somehow caught but all in all Blanket Bay will always be our special little spot. Nothing can tarnish that.

Do you have a special family holiday spot too?

To see more photos from our camping weekend click here.

 

Eating Pig Knuckles in Hahndorf

When I asked Mr Vick what we were going to do in Adelaide he without hesitation replied visit Hahndorf. Um…  Hahn-seriously-where??

Hahndorf is a charming village in the Adelaide Hills about 20-30 minutes out of Adelaide. It really is the epitome of loveliness. I like villages, they always suck me in with their quaint stone cottages and colourful flower boxes and Hahndorf is no exception. In fact I developed a soft spot for the place before we had even arrived in the township, admiring the neat row upon row of home grown veggies and organic produce stalls along the road side. There was something so warm and homely about the place. I spelt countryside to me.

Turns out Hahndorf is a German settlement town, the oldest surviving German settlement village in Australia in fact. It dates back to 1836 when migrants arrived on our shores from Prussia. It has never lost that heritage and today still celebrates it’s origins with authentic architecture, cuisine and small goods.

We were happy to celebrate in the form of eating. As you do….or perhaps, as I do. But really, apart from moseying along the streets and through the shops there’s not too much else to do in Hahndorf. You would find it hard not to eat in Hahndorf.

I found out when we sat down to a traditional German feast that the very reason why we were indeed in Hahndorf was because Mr Vick wanted to order and try pigs knuckles for lunch which he’d heard about from his brother. Yep. We were there for the pig. Pig knuckles at that. It didn’t gross me out although I had no idea what to expect. Traditional German cuisine was to be had. I said well be darned, I want some good sausage so this is what we ended up with:

There was so much pig and sausage my feeble arms could barely lift the plate up for photographic purposes. It should also be said this plate was shared and not just a preggie indulgence but it was goooooodddd…pig knuckle and all. I love my preserved meats. It is my strange little fetish. Pregnant or not.

Before and after

Our efforts were applaudable although we did exit with mighty bellies comparable to Santa Claus. I was amazed I could actually move off my seat. I was heavy. Mumma pig heavy but we’d promised Little Vick a treat pre feast and you know how well toddlers hold you to your word right?  Yep, so more eating. There was a delightful looking cafe with the most delectable looking sweets which had snagged our eye so we hot footed it back to get our share of sugar and sweetness.

Little Vick of course had to have the largest piece of cake in the place. The most fantastical looking thing which teamed up with organic strawberries looked and tasted quite flash.

Afterwards we staggered up the street fully stuffed of cake and pig and discovered the puppet shop. It’s the only store in Australia dedicated to the puppet. I made some comment to the owner about how dedicated she was and she said it was a lifestyle.
Interesting. I mean, I love craft and collectable and all… but that’s a very serious statement. The shop is quite a spectacle and worth a squiz whether you’re a small or big kid.

Of course if puppets, German cuisine, cakes or crafty shops aren’t your thing then you could pop by the local wineries or the National Motor Museum is in the neighbouring town of Birdwood. The Toy Factory and Big Rocking Horse in Gumeracha tends to be a hit with the kiddlets too. So plenty of activities to jam pack into a day discovering and exploring the delightful Adelaide Hills.

For the record, I have not eaten pork since. I haven’t needed to. I think I’m still digesting it :)

Wordless Wednesday: Camping On The Lawn at Lorne!

We are home again. We got back yesterday from camping on the lawn at Lorne. Beach side and all. There’s something charming about that bush surrounded coastal town on the infamous Great Ocean Road. I love the little boutiques, the top notch eateries and the get your shoes off and get on the beach atmosphere. It’s a very easy place to hang out at and now with the school holidays over, the overwhelming buzz that surrounds the town over the peak period has dwindled and you can only hear whispers of leisure.

I have faint memories from camping in Lorne for a number of years in my early childhood. Shadowy images which make the town feel sentimental and reminiscent. Spot lighting for possums, smokey mist filtering through the town from the warming camp fires, late nights, riding my pink tricycle and friends. Always lots of friends.

I love visiting again, in this lifetime, creating memories and images in my little boys mind. Those images you take away with you for a lifetime right? Snap shots and captions which create the layers of an individual.

I didn’t take many photographs. Perhaps it was about just treasuring the memories within, but here are a few randoms that captured elements of our time in Lorne.

Friendly locals. These birds find us wherever we go.

Overcast, but not complaining

Fabric pretties in that cafe

I love a happy car

Little Vick was most disheartened when we told him it was time to pack up the tent and go home. He actually grizzled. He loves that over sized cubby that he gets to sleep in. I suspect it won’t be our last camping adventure for the summer, and I’m a-OK about that :)

Christmas Campee Adventures: Preggie Vs. Drop Toilet

We had a sit down yesterday and talked road trips. Overseas trips and exotic adventures aren’t or can’t be on the agenda at this point of our life. I know, that sounds so hellishly adult doesn’t it? But a road trip, or two, could be just the adventure our little family requires with the pending birth of Baby Vick in the winter months.

Before I get onto the upcoming adventures I’ve realised I never reported our last little road trip and campee adventure. Christmas camping times were had and that was a month ago and I haven’t reported back about it yet. Pregnancy, what can I say?

Like so many of our life’s aspects, it was a spontaneous camping adventure. We winged it, you could definitely say. Somehow we pulled off something brilliant, which I fear only encourages Mr Vick to continue to be a spontaneous traveller/adventurer/living human being. I prefer to know where I’m going to sleep, but none the less I couldn’t complain with where we laid our heads in the Lower Glenelg National Park to celebrate family, nature and the end of 2012.

Our Christmas time was spent at the seaside town of Warrnambool along the South Western Coast of Victoria. We decided to jump in the car and head further west, right out of civilisation. We ended up at Nelson. A town about 30km’s from Mount Gambier on the South Australian Border. To sum up Nelson would be to say it’s an awkward, somewhat underwhelming kinda town. It’s claim to fame in the Glenelg River and let it be said, it would be nothing without it. Although it does have a pub and a takeaway store so I suppose it’s got all the staples of a true Australian town. If you’re Rex Hunt or a retiree or a boating enthusiast then Nelson is your kinda place. There is water and fish waiting to be found. The hum of boats is the permanent soundtrack of Nelson. But let’s be honest we wern’t in Nelson for its entertaining features, we were in Nelson to a) get an ice-cream and b) to enjoy it’s surrounding wilderness; the Lower Glenelg National Park.

National parks. They seem to be all the rage these days for campers. Many want to experience the affordable, secluded, tree surrounding camp site that is, as a result, difficult to secure. They tend to get booked up months in advance during peak times, and yet, we were going to try and get in on what would be booked out action. I wasn’t confident. I’m the realist in the family but non the less I  entertain the dreamers, but sometimes they actually manage to find something (kinda awesome – but I didn’t say it) even if it is a little left of centre. We have been known to be naughty campees. Camping where permit is required with no permit (as in this instance), camping on someones property, camping just on the boarders of illegal land. Yep, we are campee rebels.

This time Mr Vick found a little clearing designated for overnight walkers participating in the Great South West Walk. We were staying 2 nights but if anyone asked we were doing a bit of walking out from the site. Wink, wink.

Our city of tents and no, that isn’t a random hobo sleeping under a tarp. That’s just my husband.

It was a nice spot. Right by the river near the Battersby camping area. Canoeing, bird watching, walking, swimming, fishing, marshmallow toasting and general laziness – it was all possible there.

First light

Early risers (one less willing than the other)

The new kayak up and paddling

Little Vick developed a fierce interest in fishing

Ya know, I’m not afraid to rough it. I grew up making cow shite mud pies by hand (I know, I know…). But camping pregnant did pull up one surprise for me. Our campsite was literally a clearing in the bush alongside a river. In our camping minds, perfection. No wifi, no mobile phones, no crowds, not even a shower, but thankfully a toilet. Albeit, a drop toilet. Ya know, a hole in the ground with a few walls around it. I’m not afraid of this al a naturale glamour. Left behind my business on many a drop toilet before but having an encounter with one when you’re pregnant with a hyper sensitive sense of smell is a different experience all together. It was definitely a hold you nose and don’t inhale any fumes or die situation… but you have to gasp for air eventually right? Let’s just say I was happy when I only dry wretched twice in one visit.

Then there were the kids. We’ve done camping with a toddler before. No problemo we bragged to everyone. Camping with 2 toddlers, hooley feckin’ dooley, who’s idea was that one? Individually I’m sure the toddlers are excellent little outdoor campers but put together they became little delinquents that required a constant watchful eye. Running full pelt at the river and seeing your pregnant Mum get up and attempt an unco wombat like sprint, was hilariously fun apparently. By the end of the second day of this we were prepared to let them sink.

When we wern’t heaving ourselves at the toddlers or teasing a niece about
suffering wifi withdrawals, we managed to enjoy some good campee times. It’s all about the nature and nature is exactly what Nelson serves up in lashings. The river, the bush and the summer sun, it was healing. We needed that good ole fashion country air in our lungs and the space in our heads. Our little family was thankful for it.

So, will I go back for round 2 with a drop toilet? Probably. It’s better than sitting at home eating Cherry Ripes looking like a wounded wombat right? (….REALLY???Given that the summer months are fantastical for camping we are definitely planning some further camping adventures. There’s some names of places swirling around at the moment like Lorne, Warrnambool, Adelaide, Byron Bay, Black Rocks and Blanket Bay.

Where is your favourite family camping spot??

The Big Pack: What To Take When You’re Camping with a Toddler!

I don’t pretend to be some kind of packing know it all. I don’t know if I actually know anything at all but we recently embarked on a week long camping trip in the remote Northern Territory with my 22 month old son, Little Vick and we SURVIVED! It was our first camping trip as a family and we had the car fully loaded and falling out at the seams. Like, I couldn’t even see Little Vick in the backseat it was so loaded! It’s easy to over pack for such an occasion (never me, no no). It’s even easier to under pack and live verrrry uncomfortably, but I think we got it just right. Hopefully this list might offer some insight when you are forced to think through what is needed for a family camping trip cos it surely requires some thinking ahead and preparation! I need not be a hellish kinda experience.

THE (LONGEST) CAMPING PACK LIST:

    • Tent – that’s kinda the biggy to remember
    • Bedding – we took a blow up air mattress & portacot for Little Vick
    • Contraption to blow up mattress - can be a good set of lips, manual hand pump or an electric (lazy) one which can be re-charged through the lighter in the car.
    • Bedding – an extra blanket is always wise & don’t forget your pillow!
    • Newspaper – to put down under mattresses to stop the cold coming up through
    • Tarp – this has various uses but we used this as a ground cover for our central area to save dirt getting trampled into our tent by our feet. Some people use foam mats alternatively
    • Camp chairs
    • Camp table – a compact-able one is good for space saving
    • Torch – good for getting up at night (to a toddler)
    • Camp light – ones that can be re-charged through car cigarette lighters are amazeballs
    • Matches
    • Citronella candle to annoy mozzie’s right away
    • Mozzie repellent (by the gallon)
    • Sunscreen
    • Toiletries
    • Clothing - which should include sunglasses, hat, hiking/walking shoes, warm jumper/jacket
    • Towels
    • Backpack for walking and exploring
    • Toddler backpack/carrier – this is our lifesaver!
    • Portable gas cooking stove
    • Gas bottle
    • Cooking equipment – we took 1 x saucepan, 1 x frying pan
    • Cooking utensils – I suggest tongs, flip, spoon, can opener.
    • Picnic set – usually contains plates, cups, cutlery in a compact-able form
    • A good knife
    • Chopping board if it is not in your picnic set
    • Cooking oil
    • Water – gallons of it – we bought it by the 10 litre drum & took 4 of them for a week
    • Drink bottle to transfer water into to take on walks and explorations
    • Esky
    • Ice for the esky
    • Food. We took a variety of fresh and canned.
    • Toilet paper
    • Rope – this is a multi purpose ya never know kinda thing. We ended up using one as a clothes line
    • Hammer
    • Plastic bags for rubbish
    • Dish cloth – boo… the dishers still need to be done
    • Tea towel
    • Dish washing liquid – I always feel better taking something a little environmentally friendly since the water has to get tipped out on the ground. Something like the Eco Store brand. We also used this as a soap.
    • Maps
    • Book
    • Backgammon or a pack of cards
    • Paper and pen
    • Toddler entertainment – they probably won’t need much since the environment provides heaps of stimulation but we took bubbles, a couple of books, crayons & paper & a ball. Also bubs comforter is a real good idea. We couldn’t have done it with out ‘koala‘!
    • First aid kit – we made up our own consisting of things from band aids, to Panadol to bandages, to tweezers, to antiseptic.
    • A good sense of humour and desire for adventure - an absolute must!

Have I forgotten anything? What else do you like to take camping? Please share :) Thanks to Walkingon Travels & Suitcases & Sippycups for linking me up with Travel Tip Tuesday.

Can I also ask a favour? I’m currently in the running to be crowned in the Top 25 Australian Mummy Blogs… totally rad. I want it. Two clicks and you can help me live my daydream right here. Easy peasy. THANK YOU :) xox

Getting Intimate with the Mozzi’s of Kakadu

You may remember I wrote about my husbands plan to embark on a week long camping trek around the Top End last week? Yep. I was going but I was packin’ myself. It didn’t help that we stopped off to do A Jumpin Crocs tour on our way along the Adelaide River. As brilliant as it was it provided a sobering warning for both of us about the realities of swimming in the NT. In fact, seeing the Crocs confidently sunning themselves, with their gigantic ego’s, on numerous river banks on the drive into the Kakadu National Park scared us. Alright, me mostly. I was on the verge of hot footin’ it back to Victoria. I actually heard myself asking in my head whether they could attack the car somehow? Obviously the prospect of going swimming was off. Big NO GO. I was glad Mr Vick was now with me on that one. I hadn’t been too sure previously.

I cheered when we arrived at the Kakadu National Park sign. We were officially somewhere very special. Somewhere that means something to our identity as a nation.

Kakadu is all red dirt, dry fauna and suspicious looking creeks which I know are home to our sharp toothed friends who like to play hidey. There are various tracks to numerous campsites. This is where Mr Vick’s loose planning caused me to come undone. See we hadn’t really discussed what we were going to do when we actually arrived at Kakadu. Very briefly, on the way, we pointed to a dot on our map and said the location looked remote and peaceful and that could maybe be our home but after seeing the Crocs out and just how remote this area was ( and beside a billabong) I “accidentally” directed us passed that no-one-would-know-if-you-were-eaten-campsite and steered us towards a little bit more civilisation cos people equal safety right? Anyway there was a bit of narky tension shared between us about that. Holiday tiff #1. It’s true I usually don’t have a problem with roughing it and escaping the crowd but I was on alert here. I had my protective parental radar on.

We kept driving waiting for the right camp spot to hit us in the face. You may not realise but Kakadu is a kinda large place. I didn’t have the foggiest. It covers over 19,800 square km’s. Lots of opportunities to get lost I’d say but for the most part there are a lot of sealed roads, lots of signs and ample amounts of like minded travellers. There’s about 19-20 designated camping areas and there are 2 types including bush campsites for the more a la naturale, remote experience. You’ll be lucky to get a toilet and a fireplace here and often they are located down some seriously rickety 4WD tracks. Then there’s the managed campsites which are still quite peaceful but have flushing toilets and if your lucky a lukewarm solar powered shower. Sites cost between $5-$10 per person per night. There’s no booking or reservation system so it’s first in best dressed and popular areas do fill up quickly each day so I’d recommend you claim your spot before 4 or 5pm each day.

Anywho, we ended up taking the next turn off and landed at the Merl Camping Ground which is situated close to the Ubirr rock-art site in the East Alligator River to the North East of the park.

We found our own little bush area (and this campsite is more primitive than some of the more southern sites) and we started to set up our new tent, of which we had never attempted before. When tensions are high there’s nothing better than setting up a tent for the first time as a team is there? Tents, portacots… they make idiots of us all at the best of times. We managed it.

(not sure why this is so dark… clearly I still don’t know how to use my fancy camera)

For the rest of the day we slummed it. I mostly kept my eyes peeled for snakes, Little Vick set about stirring up as much dirt as possible and Mr Vick snoozed in the tent. Consequently, Mr Vick was thrilled about our campsite. It was precisely as he had envisaged this outdoorsy adventure to be and I was thrilled about being at a campsite that has some form of running water, considering Little Vick was now a dirt monster.

When night was about to fall we got our campie on and got a fire crackling. This became our stove (and most campsites in Kakadu have camp fire pits). Little Vick was right into the stick snapping, throwing and lighting, naturally. Seriously, do all boys have a little bit of a pyromaniac in them?

The worst moment hit the instant the sun went down. It was like a scene from Alfred Hitchcocks The Birds, except the enemy was the mosquitoes. Those little blood sucking feckers! Let me just say, If people in the NT tell you the mosquitoes are bad, BELIEVE THEM. They were buzzing around in gangs of thousands, ready to suck dry us the innocent visitor. Not very hospitable I’d say. We had mozzi repellent & a citronella candle, that should cover it right? NO EFFECT WHATSOEVER and after half an hour of spraying… the mozzi repellent ran out. CATASTROPHE! I had bites from my face to my little pinky. There was nothing more that could be done but crawl into the protection of our little tent and wait it out. I couldn’t believe it. Held hostage by blood obsessed mozzi’s. What spoil sports. I was miserable. I had visions of toasting marshmallows and reminiscing in front of the fire with Mr Vick. It was going to be brilliant connection time. It’s not quite so romantical however when you’re both in a tent trying to not make a sound in case we wake the toddler up, and grumpy from the itchy welts which are already coming up with enough itch to make you want to peel your own skin off. The term “happy camper” couldn’t be further from the truth.

I already started thinking it. If it’s going to be like this every night, I’m bailing. This is a deal breaker.

But where there is disaster there is always a little miracle right? Little Vick went to sleep without a fight. No complaint. A born camper it turns out. THAT was miracle # 1. # 2 is that we decided to keep our fly off the tent because it was such a balmy evening. I’m sure the NT has not heard of rain in June ever, so we were confident in leaving it off. That meant Mr Vick and I, together with those sucking little feckers loud soundtrack playing around us, could gaze up through the top of the tent to see the most spectacular star dotted sky we’ve ever seen. Not a cloud, not a city light to taint the colour or clarity. It was a real wonder. We peered out at the entire world which was laid out before us - us the insignificant creatures. This was miracle # 2. We watched on quietly absorbing, appreciating. All the insanities of the day disintegrated and we fell into a deep, refreshing sleep ready for a day of exploring to follow. Our Kakadu holiday had begun.

Stay tuned for our super spiritual experience at Ubirr Rock site & further along, swimming on top of a Kakadu waterfall!

 

 

 

 

Camping in The Northern Territory…….. Really???

When Mr Vick mentioned the word camping the little adventurer in me came alive. The mother in me however stopped dead in my tracks and cringed. 22 month old + Kakadu. Not the perfect equation I would think. The imagery in my mind went something like this: toddler screaming all night in a tent that is if a crocodile had not indeed wandered up and eaten us for afternoon tea, or if we hadn’t ambushed a snake who is a bit hostile…or we could end up with a Dingo in our tent. Then there’ll be dirt from our ears to our bum crack and not a drop of crocodile free water in sight to wash ourselves with. Mr Vick’s sense of adventure will surely get us into some sort of trouble but there was nothing that was going to stop him from going ahead with this fantasy. He was like a pig rolling around in stenchy dung at the mere thought of it, so it was obviously going to be happening. We could do this right?

We bought a 6 person Holiday Home, an over extravagant name for a mere cheapish tent and loaded up our miniature box of a hire car to the sheebers with every thing you could possibly think of. Cos let’s face it if we forgot something we were up Shit Creek. I could barely see Little Vick from the front seat. Of course he didn’t seem phased. This queer, spontaneous behaviour from us seemed perfectly normal to him. Just another day being a Vickerty (one of my clan).

We mapped out a bit of a plan. That’s battle no. 1. The word ‘plan’ is a little foreign to Mr Vick who’s ideas of a plan is, well you could say, loose, which is oh so fun for an organised to the every minute type like me. We both have to meet in the middle, in theory. Anyway we managed to get a map and come up with something. 1 week out of Darwin on the road was shaping up like this for us:

2 or 3 nights in Kakadu, 1 night in Katherine where we would load up with supplies and then 2 or 3 nights in Litchfield National Park before returning back to civilisation in Darwin. It looks swell on the map. Simple, yes?

Simple or not we hit the road ready for the unknown but surely an adventure of sorts. I gave us 3 days before we were dirty, grumpy, hungry, sleep deprived, hating each others innards and threatening divorce and returning to Darwin. Mr Vick was convinced we’d last out the entire week.

Where we being ambitious? How many days would you attempt camping with a toddler?

Stay tuned for to hear about our Kakadu adventures next post :)

The Top 10 Things to Do in Darwin!

I could not recommend Darwin highly enough for a totally rad family getaway, particularly during the winter months when Darwin puts on a pleasantly warm show. It seriously breathed life back into us after being shell shocked by Victoria’s insistently chilling winter. To date it was my favourite family holiday location but it’s also ideal for singles who just want a warm chillaxing break. This is a quick reference point for anyone making their way up to Darwin. These are must do’s which we enjoyed from our trip. They’re all family friendly & many of them FREE!

1. Take a dip at the beachfront lagoon which is apart of the popular waterfront precinct

2. Whilst at the beachfront precinct head over and visit the wave pool. The kids will beg for it!

3. Take a stroll at sunset along the wharf pier, have a feed & feed the giant fish off the side of the pier

4. Visit a museum – The Darwin military Museum & The Museum & National Gallery of Northern Territory are musts for understanding Darwin’s eventful past. We were really astounded by some of the things we discovered

5. Visit a waterhole like the naturally warm Berry Springs, located 45 minutes out of Darwin

6. Visit a market -  Darwin is THE market capital. There are stacks of options with something on almost daily, but Mindl Beach Markets are probably the most notorious along the beach front at sunset and is on twice a week. They will blow your mind!

7. Visit Litchfield National Park. There are plenty of organised bus tours running daily or take a drive (about 1.5 hours out of Darwin) for yourself and you’ll get to swim in the most spectacular spots like Wangi falls

8. Do a Jumping Crocodile Tour along the Adelaide River

9. Catch a flick at the Deckchair Cinema

10. Eat & watch a glorious sunset by the beach at the likes of The Trailer Club or the Darwin Sailing Club. It seriously will give you a bit of inner glow. We loved our final night there!

Useful sites:

The Lonely Planet Guide 

National Territory Travel

Enjoy Darwin